Kolasin, Montenegro
A monument complex built in 1975 to commemorate the first assembly of the National Anti-Fascist Council of the Peoples Liberation of Montenegro and Boka.
Designed by Slovenian Marko Mušič.
Grabbed a shortcut, wading through wildflowers, abandoned stone road, river trudging, following gps track. Then another million hour dirt climb to the highway, pummeling rain.
Dream that we might like to live in an angular, ordered space with width like the transparency of thought itself.
Seems like it was uphill all day, intermittent hike a bike way into the mountains, towns receding below. Went to one of the cool Spomeniks and then this old guy came out with a bottle of some kind of wicked alcohol and talked our ears off, we didn’t understand a word of what he said but he was very kindly and hammered and I drank some too.
Juxtapositions are a unexpected source of warmth and attentiveness. Kilometers of rolling dirt paths between farmhouses, images of an idyllic shire in mist gusting half light, and then a heap of rusting military vehicles, abandoned at a crossroads like children’s toys.
Into the countryside, we’ll link spomeniks while harassed by sheets of rain that turn the track into mud and leave us shivering wrapped in grey. Unphotographed moments that have now only retrospexistence, which can often be truer.
The Spomeniks of former Yugoslavia are future thinking, political, and mnemonic. They are notable in how their materiality achieves spirituality. To me they have a powerful beauty and they continue to speak even as they decay and are in many cases neglected.
Those next days headed toward Sjeverni National Park, startlingly dry, a concrete impacted heat, leaves us heaving into noons. Well above the sea and the E65, we don’t see anyone for twenty hours. As if we’re pedaling against a static painting, pebbly grit, haze chalk green.
Pinball bounding bouncing rock to rock and from the edge of your vision you can see see where the stone fences have collapsed to haphazard return to the track. Snapping twigs and leaf shush, our arms raked by thorns. Heat concentrated into a clearing, dive past the perimeter again.
This southern central part of the country isn’t mountainous, but the hills come bright cymbal crashes to our tired legs again and again.