Rattlebuzz hands numb, the tingle in my right ring finger will last through the night, been gasping eightnineten hour days, noon slicing heat and an hour before sunset all my clothes on. Patterns in the […]
Cycling adventurist, bikepacker, travel writer, photographer, speaker, professor of philosophy. Route designer of the VTXL, the Green Mountain Gravel Growler beer tour, the Silk Road Mountain Race course 1st edition, and many more.
Category: Postcard
Bolivia postcard
Finished my meal in the tiny restaurant, two young women, 14 and 17 if I was betting, ably running the entire show. I ask the set meal price, she says 20 bolivianos, I have one […]
La Paz postcard
La Paz archetypally cosmopolitan, my first for all this time in South America, black glass concrete steel skyscrapers, painted laned wide thoroughfares, stand still traffic ravel on a street lined with banks and financial services. […]
Bolivia Postcard
Pebbly grit blown town with a vacant lot central square, a half finished plaza and windowless second floor buildings perpetually in progress, all giving it a zombie endtime movie look. Coast to the one rumored […]
La Paz postcard
The approach the usual bedlam through light industrial auto repair welding screaming clanking, every truck and bus and moto spewing graphite smoke to collect like a fog on the pavement that ends at the edges […]
Bolivia Postcard
Leaving Peru to Bolivia, this north lake borderless border crossing. Passport stamped in Puno a hundred k ago, here none of the usual cues or trappings, no soldiers or police, no gates or furtive looks […]
Cusco Postcard
Descending to the city, low angle sunlight on the basin shimmers and suggests even from this distance crackling intrinsic luminosity, a history and a vibrant present. Closer now in the streets, cobbled and crowded, colonial […]
Peru postcard
Descend the stairs by headlamp to get water and startled by Juan de la Cruz Almeida hiding in the shadows in a spot where he surely couldn’t see my camp but could hear my movements. […]
Peru postcard
It’s going to be dark soon. Not maybe twenty minutes soon, more like three minutes soon. Past shadows of adobe homes, the road is above a plaza, voices below so I take the singletrack abajo. […]
Peru postcard
Political protests, as familiar to the Peruvian landscape as jungle or high peaks or rolling grassy plains. Usually peaceful but with tense conviction, mobile debates with a different conception of the process, a reaction, so […]
Peru postcard
We gain two, Eugeneo and Angus aiming north but arcing our way to catch their five days on deck Amazon boat to Iquitos. Youthful exuberance and joy and curiosity. Eugeneo, ever grin unruly blonde dreadlocks […]
Peru postcard
Riding along a rural quiet mountain road, haven’t seen traffic for a couple of hours, tiled angles roofs down in the valley below. Kid shuffling center ahead, dirty khakis abused Chuck Taylors nylon jacket, I […]